The Beginning

It's been two years, two years since i was last away. Carrying all my possesions on my back, wandering from place to place. A lot has changed since, mostly myself. I have grown up (a little), begun university, have a relationship, no longer live in my home town Plymouth and most of all I am happy. Something that was previously a difficult thing for me. In fact the only thing that I was happy about was the ability to travel and escape it all. So I begin this trip with a question; why am I still doing this?

Back then it was East Africa. This time it's India. Backpacker haven for decades. My arrival was a bumpy landing at Mumbais international airport amongst torential rain. Rain that was to continue for the rest of the day. And the four following days. The monsoon season is in full swing and the partched land is gulping down the water. Every undeveloped piece of land spawing vivid green plants.

Mumabi is a strange mix of a city. It covers a vast area and has a population to match. Driving from the airport you must first pass though the outer slums before you reach the city proper. Here there are buildings that wouldnt look out of place in any european city back at home. Mercedes car show rooms, brand name clothes stores and fancy restaurants are interspersed amongst the street stalls, beggers and rubbish strewn streets. Spending just one day here you quickly get a sense of its character. That like any other major city of business. Things move quick, people move with purpose barely batting an eyelid at you and all to the soundtrack of hundreds of car horns.

There appears to be two kinds of people here. Those who have money and enjoy the lifestyle Mumbai can offer and those who come looking to make money but end up living in one of the outer slums, or perhaps just sleeping on the street, using the empty stalls as beds. I thought I was prepared for the poverty, the people living on the street from my experiences in Africa. I was not however prepared to see so much poverty right next door to such wealth.

Despite my apprehension towards Mumbai I had to spend 4 days here. So , how to fill four days? I had got in contact with someone before arriving, Tina, who was on a round the world trip with India as her last stop. So at least there was someone to pass the time with. Our first real Indian experience was to go and see a Bollywood movie. It was odd to watch a film entirely in another language. But there was enough little bits of English sprinkled throughout the film to understand it. Plus it was your basic Bollywood romance. I really enjoyed it.

To fill some more time we visited the museum and gateway of India, built to commemorate the first visit of King George V. Both were undergoing extensive repairs so the majority was hidden from view. The museum was still impressive however. Its exhibits containing some amazing sculptures in both stone and wood, old oil paintings and religious relics. The gateway on the other hand was a little underwhelming. Essentially just a giant archway with touts swarming around it. The only real significance it has is that the last British Army personel marched out of India under the gateway, ending a significant era in Indian history.

My favourite day in Mumbai actually ended up not really taking place in mumbai. Playing extras in a Bollywood film. We were first due to be in a cricket film called Victory but filming was cancelled so ended up in a film about fashion, surprisingly called Fashion. Driven out to the set in the morning we went through make up and costumes. I was given a cream suit and yellow shirt to wear, all far too big. With my hair gelled to one side I looked like a 1930's American gangster. Next, we were sent to the set itself. We were to play the part of spectators in a London fashion show. A huge triangular runway had been built with a giant silver pyramid standing at its back lit with purple neon lights. The morning was hot and cramped but we did get to see everything set up and watch the interactions of the cast and crew. Apparently the lead actress was Miss World 2002. This obviously meant nothing to me and I still to this day have no idea who she is. After lunch we were not needed so had time to talk to the other travelers who had been roped into the job and had been similarly horribly dressed as gangsters or hookers. It was nice to finally talk to other people about where they had been, what to see and what to avoid. Finally felt like I was getting in touch with the backpacker scene out here. Although there were tourists everywhere in Mumbai there appeared to be very limited places to meet.

After a few quick shots in the evening it was time to leave. It was a very long, hot day but an enjoyable one. The next afternoon we had a train to Aurangabad. I couldnt wait. Mumbai is just a city and cities are everywhere. It takes a lot for one to become special and a place to genuinely visit, New York or London for instance. Mumbai, I dont think, has that quality. Four days is enough for me. Im ready to move on.